Man with a classic curled handlebar moustache: how to grow and style a handlebar moustache

Handlebar Moustache:
How to Grow and Style It

The curled, characterful moustache that takes patience and wax. Here's the honest guide to growing, training, and styling one.

By Jessica Hamilton — Master Stylist & Creative Director

The handlebar is the moustache with genuine character, grown long enough that the ends can be waxed and curled upward into the signature loops. It's a commitment: it takes months of growth and daily training, and it lives or dies on moustache wax and patience. Here's how to actually get there.

What Makes It a Handlebar

A handlebar is defined by length and curl: the moustache is grown well past the upper lip, and the outer ends are long enough to be waxed and trained to curl upward and outward: the "handlebars." Unlike most moustaches, it needs the hair at the corners of the mouth to keep growing rather than being trimmed to the lip line.

Growing It Out

  1. 1

    Commit to 3-4 months minimum

    You need real length at the ends to curl. Resist trimming the width.

  2. 2

    Push through the awkward phase

    Weeks 4-10 look scruffy and want to droop into the mouth — comb it aside and wait.

  3. 3

    Keep it out of your mouth

    Comb the centre down and the ends outward daily so it trains away from the lip.

  4. 4

    Only trim the very centre

    Keep the philtrum (centre, under the nose) tidy so it doesn't overhang; leave the ends alone.

  5. 5

    Start waxing once the ends reach the jaw corners

    That's when you have enough to curl.

Styling with Wax

  • Use a firm-hold moustache wax: beard balm won't hold a curl.
  • Warm a small amount between fingertips until it's workable.
  • Comb the moustache from centre outward first to distribute and detangle.
  • Work wax through the ends, then twist each side between finger and thumb into a point or curl.
  • Curl upward and outward, using a small round brush or your fingers to set the loop.
  • Re-set as needed: heat (a hairdryer on low) helps the wax hold the shape.

Maintenance

  • Wash and condition it, since a moustache traps food and grime; keep it clean.
  • Comb daily to keep the training consistent.
  • Trim only the centre/philtrum, never the ends you're growing.
  • Carry a small wax tin for touch-ups; humidity and eating undo the curl.
  • Pair it thoughtfully: a handlebar is a statement, so keep the haircut relatively clean so the moustache leads.

Common Mistakes While Growing One

  • Trimming the ends too early: the curl needs enough length to hold, so cutting back stray hairs in the first few weeks just delays reaching a length that can actually curl.
  • Applying wax to a wet or damp moustache: wax grips dry hair much better. Applying it while hair is even slightly damp leaves the curl loose and short-lived.
  • Using too much wax at once: a small amount, roughly a pea-sized scrape from the tin, is enough for most moustaches. Overloading it looks greasy and can make the curl slide rather than hold.
  • Ignoring the area just above the lip: a handlebar needs a defined edge above the lip to look intentional. Trim this line regularly even while growing the length elsewhere.

How It Differs by Facial Hair Texture

Straight, fine hair holds a curl less naturally and usually needs a firmer, stronger-hold wax and more frequent reapplication throughout the day. Coarser or curly facial hair often shapes into a curl more easily but can be harder to comb into a symmetrical, even curl on both sides, so a fine-tooth moustache comb used daily helps train it into a consistent shape over time.

Very thick moustache hair may need to be thinned slightly with thinning shears at the base so it does not look overly bulky once the ends are waxed and curled outward.

What to Do If the Curl Won't Hold

If the ends keep dropping within a few hours, the most common cause is not enough length yet rather than a product problem. A curl generally needs at least two to three inches of length past the corner of the mouth to hold its shape reliably. In the meantime, switching to a firmer-hold wax rather than a soft, natural-finish one usually buys extra hours of hold.

If the wax itself feels right but the curl still slips, try warming a slightly larger amount between your fingertips before application so it melts fully rather than sitting on the surface of the hair in small unmelted flecks, which reduces its grip.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q1: How long does it take to grow a handlebar moustache?+
At least 3-4 months. You need the ends to grow well past the corners of the mouth so they're long enough to wax and curl, which means resisting the urge to trim the width and pushing through a scruffy 4-10 week phase.
Q2: What wax do I need for a handlebar moustache?+
A firm-hold moustache wax specifically. Beard balm and softer products won't hold a curl. Warm a small amount between your fingertips, work it through the ends, then twist and curl each side upward and outward.
Q3: How do I keep a handlebar moustache out of my mouth?+
Comb the centre down and the ends outward every day to train the hair away from the lip line, and keep the philtrum (the centre under your nose) trimmed so it doesn't overhang. Once it's long enough, waxing holds it clear.
Q4: How do I curl the ends of a handlebar moustache?+
Once the ends reach the corners of your jaw, work firm-hold wax through them, then twist each side between finger and thumb into a point and curl it upward and outward. A small round brush or a low hairdryer helps set the loop.
Q5: Do I trim a handlebar moustache?+
Only the centre. Keep the philtrum under your nose tidy so it doesn't overhang your lip. Never trim the outer ends, which are the part you're growing long to curl. Trimming the ends restarts the whole growing process.

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